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Endicott Arm, Dawes Glacier and Ford’s Terror

  • Julie
  • Jul 9, 2023
  • 4 min read

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We timed our departure from the anchorage at Tracy Arm to enter Endicott Arm. The tides this day (Solstice) were a 16 feet difference between high and low over about 8 hours, so the current can really run fast through narrow passages. The entrance to Endicott Arm is over one of the shallow moraines, increasing the flow. In addition to our electronics on board, we watch the water to see how the currents are effecting the buoys--they really lean over when there is a big flow. Also, watching other boats and seeing how the water effects their passage can be helpful.

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Lots of ice to dodge on the approximately 20+ mile ride to the glacier.

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Sumdum Glacier is along the way and we can get a closer look.

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Looking up Endicott Arm. Some of the mountains are over 10,000 feet in elevation.

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Getting closer...

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Ice bergs and "bergie bits" are what the smaller looking pieces are called, though they can have a lot going on underneath. Hitting one with our boat would be like hitting a rock, so we go pretty slow and it takes a lot of concentration to steer through. We go until they get too thick or we get too tired... and the amount of ice changes sometimes hourly, so we keep a close eye on how we will exit, too.

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This was how close we got today, about 2 miles from the face of the glacier. When we are with other boaters, we sometimes take the dinghies in closer--it is easier to work around the ice. We didn't see any calving today, but we stay at least 1/4 mile away (we use our radar to figure that out) to avoid any big waves from ice causing a big splash.

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Glacier with telephoto lens. The face of Dawes glacier is 200-300 feet tall, with another 300 feet below the water line, and 1.5 miles wide... It's deceptive, isn't it?

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Mama and baby seal. We saw a few this year, not as many as last time. They birth and whelp their young on ice bergs to be safe from orca whales, their main predator.

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Heading back out from the glacier.

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David practices the ukulele while we cruise the 12 or so miles back to Ford's Terror, an inlet off of the north side of the Endicott Arm.

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Looking back as we enter Ford's Terror. There was apparently a big Brown bear on the grassy area shortly before we went through.


This place can run with very strong currents producing overfalls in the water. Mr Harry Ford came through here in the late 1880s in his canoe and got caught in the current, hence the name of this location. The first time we went here on the Slowboat flotilla, Kevin taught us about "reconning" the water in the dinghy before going in the big boat. We have used this technique many times in many places, whenever we are worried about the current or depth. David hops in and scopes things out before we proceed or anchor. We are so happy we bought a bigger dinghy with a more powerful engine before we started coming up here... slow boat, fast dinghy...

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Bringing you along as we enter Ford's Terror... the water has smoothed the rocks.


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The pictures cannot begin to show the majesty and grandeur of this place! So much granite! It's about 4 miles to the anchorage from the entrance.

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Utter awe...

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Interesting lichens grow on the granite. You can also see the scratches in the rock from ice moving down many many years ago...

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Doesn't this look like a crying eye?

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Can you see the boats up against the land? That is the anchorage. You can hear that big waterfall on the left roaring.

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As soon as we got settled, we hopped in the dinghy and joined the Slowboat gang for a dinghy exploration. This is Laura and Kevin, the flotilla leaders and our dear friends, leading us all.

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This is going into the north arm of Ford's Terror, a place one should NEVER take their big boat. There is a really shallow moraine with rocks as you go in. One of the last times we were here, someone took their big boat in and hit the rocks... they ended up going back to Juneau the next day to have their boat hauled out of the water to inspect the damage. We have experienced an overfall over this area in the dinghy, too... Wheeeee!

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A mudflat where we have seen Brown bears in the past... none this day.

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Going up a stream at the head of this arm.

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So pretty!


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The granite wall turned out to be a sort of cave with Cliff Swallows diving in and out across the stream, catching bugs. We took turns going through and getting closer to the shallow part of the stream--the turn around point.

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Coming back out of the north arm in the dinghies.

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I love the vertical patterns on these huge faces.

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Airship (Laura and Kevin's boat) beneath the waterfall at Ford's Terror.

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We caught a few shrimp here--a total of 50 over three days. Enough for us to savor.

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Coon-stripe shrimp.

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Relaxing in the cockpit on a nice afternoon. We are all closed up due to deer/horse flies that bite... When there isn't wind, they are really pesky.

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Snow over a waterfall.

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Spanish style shrimp, sautéed zucchini, Ina's French potato salad, cold white wine.


The next day, we went dinghy exploring again... this time back out towards the entrance.

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We love examining all the waterfalls... I have a million videos of them. If you are interested, in seeing any of them, let me know and I'll text you some!

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Living our best life every day! That is our goal!

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Such a great shot, I had to include it. <3

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Bowls with soba noodles, broccoli, carrots, cabbage and shrimp. I cooked them in their shells for extra flavor, and the fun of unwrapping each precious morsel.

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The big chasm waterfall, on the way out.

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On the way out. Looks like we timed it just right.

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Kelp in the glacial water. This really is the color in this location.

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Out we go... until next time!


1 Comment


marlajeankoch
Jul 11, 2023

What a place! I can only imagine the true scale from the excellent photos you shared. Whee!

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The salt water has been part of our lives for over 40 years, and we have owned sailboats for most of those.  We love the PNW and all that it has to offer with the beautiful Salish Sea, access to the Pacific Ocean and the wildlife that inhabit these areas.  We have the opportunity to expand our usual areas of exploration this year, and will depart May 24, 2021 for SE Alaska.

 

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